Recipe: Carlo’s salsa verde by Brain Shaw

Sadly, I received a notice the other day my beloved alma mater, the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, would be closing its doors at the end of the current semester along with the other 15 North American branches of parent company Le Cordon Bleu. Citing two years of losses in the millions of dollars, the company blamed the shortage of chefs in the U.S. for its decline in enrollment. In other words, aspiring chefs were having no problem finding jobs without the diploma.

Add to that a $40 million class action settlement that found the school had “inflated expectations for placement” and a deteriorating reputation in the media (Alton Brown of the Food Network referred to the school as a “culinary puppy mill.” Ouch!), it decided to throw in the toque.

But it was different back in the early 1980s when the academy had just opened as the West Coast alternative to the staunchy, old Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

With the California wineries gaining prestige and an emerging cuisine which could best be described as Mediterranean, the food scene in San Francisco was a good 30 years ahead of the “farm-to-table” craze that reigns today.

In those days the school was more about hands-on cooking than academics. Out of 16 months we spent maybe two weeks in the classroom while the rest was spent in the kitchen. It was more important to know how to make the seven “Mother Sauces” than to be able to list them.

And because the concept of celebrity chefs had yet to be created, we idolized our instructors, most of whom were Europeans. They would regale us with stories of what it was like to cook in the great kitchens of France or the fine hotels of Switzerland. They would show us clever little tricks like how to boil the shoulder blade of a lamb to make a flexible pastry scraper, or how to carve an orange so when the skin was removed it looked like a little man with, well, no clothes on. And most importantly, they would inspire us to want to be the best.

The recipe for today comes from our Italian instructor, Carlo Middione, who owned the highly regarded Vivandes at the Opera Plaza. Salsa verde, an intensely herbed vinaigrette, shows up in a lot of different cultures — French with a sauce verte or the South American with chimmichurri. It’s a versatile accompaniment to fish, chicken shellfish or lamb.

It’s really more of a concept than a recipe. Almost any combination of herbs will work. A small amount of vinegar or citrus and a splash of olive oil will provide the bridge for the flavors. And if you like, you can add a variety of things for texture — chopped capers, minced anchovy, grated hardboiled egg, sliced artichoke or celery leaves. You get the idea.

The critical thing is to make sure your herbs are really fresh. And don’t get lazy and try to use a food processor to chop them. The machine will smash rather than cut the leaves causing the oils to bleed out. Use a sharp knife, and don’t cut them too fine.

On the first day of school during orientation the executive chef, Jean Luc, who had been the chef at Maxims in Paris back when it meant something, implored us not to go through with the program.

“There’s no money to be made, the hours are long, you can’t have a family, you will become an alcoholic,” he said.

I’m glad I didn’t listen.

Carlo’s Salsa Verde

Makes about a cup: This recipe makes enough for 2-4 people, but if you’re using it for a party, at least double it. People tend to really get going on it after they taste it. Also, try to make it about an hour or two before serving so the flavors can blend. Then just allow it to sit at room temperature until ready to eat.

Ingredients

1 cup chopped Italian parsley (about one bunch)

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 tablespoons chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and chopped

1 or 2 anchovy filets, rinsed, dried and minced

1 tablespoon minced shallot

2 teaspoons chopped lemon zest

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons sherry or red wine vinegar

1/2 to 3/4 cup olive oil

Salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Directions

Wash and dry your herbs to remove any sand. Chop everything as directed and place in a non-reactive bowl (stainless or glass). Mix in the Dijon and vinegar then stir in the oil. Add the salt and pepper to taste.

Brian Shaw and his wife, Ardie, own Cafe Del Rio in Virginia City.