Walking this morning I noticed some newly-planted evergreens nearby. They were round in shape and about two feet to three feet tall with lacy-looking fans of needles.
They are a variety of Thuja occidentalis, an arborvitae. They have only been in about one week, yet already look scorched with yellow to brown needles on one side. I have also seen dwarf Alberta spruce in the neighborhood that have turned brown as well.
These plants are on drip systems, so hopefully they are receiving enough water. What is going on?
Our environment with its excessive winds, low humidity, heat and extremely bright sun allows many plants to “burn,” particularly newbies. They don’t have established root systems and may not be able to draw water out of the soil fast enough to compensate for the weather.
In addition, they may have been grown in an area where the winds and sun aren’t harsh. Planting in the extreme temperatures of July in Nevada is comparable to putting those of us with skin that has never seen the sun out in full exposure for hours and days on end. No wonder they scorched.
This is not a good planting time. However, I too have fallen victim to the “I love that plant and want it now,” syndrome. Sometimes we can’t help ourselves. Other times you may be a new home owner and can’t wait to claim your new space and make it beautiful. I get it, but you may end up replacing lots plants and that’s expensive.
One way to combat scorch is to provide wind and sun protection. There are anti-dessicant sprays that help a bit. They keep plants from drying out quickly.
A better recommendation is to actually shade plants from the worst sun and winds until they are established and the weather is kinder. This can be done with t-posts and burlap or other fabric. Drive two or three posts into the ground around the plants being careful not to damage roots or sprinkler lines. Wrap the posts with fabric to provide shade and protect against prevailing winds. This can be done not only on new plants, but also on sensitive established plants such as rhododendrons.
A final way might be to avoid planting until late summer or early fall. Plants will develop strong root systems over winter (as long as the soil around the plants remains moderately moist) and do well next year. It is wise to protect them through the winter from the wind and sun as well.
JoAnne Skelly is Associate Professor & Extension Educator Emerita, University of Nevada Cooperative Extension. Email skellyj@unr.edu
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