Hard times call for comfort food

I love it when fads and trends go full cycle, from popularity to obscurity and back again. Things like lava lamps, Lincoln Logs and short skirts. There's something vindicating about seeing people running around in platform shoes again.

In the food media the latest big deal is "comfort food." Of course comfort food is nothing new, and never really left. But with the recent all-but-collapse of our Western civilization, it shouldn't be surprising that people are turning to those satisfying, straightforward dishes that connect us with something pleasant in our past. You might say, it's an acquired taste.

More often than not, that taste isn't particularly healthy. Macaroni and cheese. Mashed potatoes and gravy. Ice cream. I've never heard of anyone getting warm and fuzzy over a veggie burger. But that's probably part of the allure " indulgence with a side of guilt.

I'd be lying if I said that today's dish brings back fond memories of all of us Shaws sitting around the table. My mother never would have served lamb. But it does have the sensual elements that make food comfortable " a flavorful chunk of tender meat, mashed potatoes and gravy.

The procedure of searing then braising with vegetables, flavorings, and red wine works just as well with veal shanks or even a tri tip. The only thing that changes is the amount of time required to get it to what I call "finger tender." Can you stick your finger through it? I've seen a fork penetrate tough meat too many times to trust "fork tender."

One other bit of advice, and this is true for just about any recipe. Read a recipe all the way through, picturing the steps. Try to see what can be done ahead of time to make it easier. These lamb shanks can be prepared all the way to completion and refrigerated or even frozen, to be enjoyed at a time when you have no time. Just reheat them in the sauce. So turn off the news and turn on your stove. You'll find comfort in the silence and comfort in your kitchen.

By the way, we're open again after our winter break. Call us at 847-5151 for our winter hours, and visit Virginia City.

- Brian Shaw and his wife Ardie own the Cafe del Rio, 394 S. C Street in Virginia City.

6 lamb shanks

2 cups sliced yellow onions

1 cup chopped celery

1 cup chopped carrots

4 cloves of garlic, smashed

1-15 ounce can diced tomatoes

2 cups chicken stock

4 cups beef stock

2 cups hearty red wine

1/2 cups Calamata olives

2 teaspoons fennel seed

1 tablespoons whole dried oregano

1 teaspoon whole dry thyme

1/2 cup flour

For dredging the lamb:

1 cup flour

1 tablespoon Kosher salt

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

Heat a heavy bottom skillet or brazier with enough oil to cover the bottom. Meanwhile, combine the flour, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl. Dredge each shank in the flour, shake off the excess and place in the hot pan. Only brown as many shanks at a time as you can fit in the pan without crowding. Using some tongs, turn them occasionally to achieve a nice, even brown all over. Take your time on this step " it's important to seal in the juices, and the final product will be much more attractive. Place the browned shanks in a roasting pan deep enough to accommodate the shanks and the remaining ingredients.

Discard any burnt grease from your skillet, wipe it out with a towel, add a little clean oil and add the vegetables, garlic and fennel. Saute on high for five minutes or so " a little color is good. Add the flour, and stir to combine. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer. Pour the hot mixture over the lamb, cover with foil and bake at 350 for about three hours. Poke them to check for doneness. Depending on the size of your shanks, it could take up to four hours. Be patient.

Once the shanks are done, allow them to cool in the stock, uncovered, for at least an hour. Remove to a platter and tent with foil (so they won't dry out). Strain the stock into a sauce pan forcing the solids with a spoon or ladle to get every drop and bring to a simmer skimming any foam that accumulates around the side. Ladle sauce over shanks.

We like to garnish with a few smashed Calamata olives, warmed in the sauce, and some lemon gremolata sprinkled over and around the shank: 1 tablespoon minced garlic combined with two tablespoons of lemon zest and 3 tablespoons chopped parsley.