Sizzling time at Lava Beds National Monument

The sound of dripping water was the only things disturbing the quiet. I decided to move ahead—and promptly hit my head on the low, rock ceiling.

That’s when I realized why the rangers insist you to buy a safety helmet when touring Lava Beds National Monument.

Despite my “heady” experience, Lava Beds Monument, located some 270 miles north of Carson City via U.S. 395, is an exceptional historic and geological landmark.

The geology of the area reflects the fact that it has been the focal point for plenty of major volcanic activity over the years. In fact, it is considered a semi-active volcanic zone because several cinder cones in the region are less than a century old.

Lava Beds Monument is on the northern slope of the Medicine Lake volcano, which last erupted 11,000 years ago. Volcanic rock formed from lava that flowed during that explosion covers nearly the entire area and was responsible for creating a complex network of cinder cones, craters, chimneys and lava tubes.

The monument contains more than 380 lava tubes—it is the greatest concentration of lava caves in the continental U.S.—that were created by the hardening of lava around the edges of a lava flow.

As the outer lava cooled, it formed a hard sheath around the river of lava seeping through the center. Eventually, the remaining lava drained away, leaving a hollow, hard-rock tunnel.

In some cases, the lava branched tree-like in various directions, creating smaller tunnels that sprouted from a central one, which is often known as the master tube.

Some of the caves at Lava Beds were used by Native Americans as campsites and as a source of water. During the first part of this century, J.D. Howard, a miller from Klamath Falls, Oregon, began exploring and mapping the caves.

Howard spent more than 20 years wandering through the underground passages and provided most of the colorful names still used such as Cleopatra’s Tomb, Hercules Leg, and the Labyrinth. His interest helped create the monument in 1925.

Lava Beds Monument has signs leading to nearly two-dozen caves scattered throughout the 72 square miles in the monument. The most accessible are clustered near the visitor center along a paved road known as Cave Loop.

Visitors can pick up a flashlight at the visitors center and purchase an inexpensive, plastic hardhat. Guided tours of selected caves are offered most days, although many visitors explore on their own.

Best place to begin a look at these underground passages is Mushpot Cave, located adjacent to the visitors center. This is the most developed cave with lighting (you use your flashlight in all the other caves), informative signage, and smooth walking surfaces.

A short walk away is the entrance to the Labyrinth, which is the largest branch of the system, connecting to eight major caves spread over two miles.

A steep metal ladder draws you into the inky depths of the Labyrinth. At the bottom, there is a large chamber that leads in three directions, each of which entails some bending (to avoid low ceilings) or climbing (to get over rubble).

In almost any of the caves, you can wander for a time and begin to feel totally alone. Shut off the light and listen—most of the time you won’t hear anyone else.

During an earlier visit a few years ago, I zigzagged through one cave for about twenty minutes before coming to a dead-end. I started back and realized that nothing looked familiar. I tried to retrace my steps but I wasn’t sure I was going the right way.

Despite the coolness below, I began to perspire. I looked at my watch every few minutes. I took one branch but it led to another dead-end. I really didn’t know where I was.

Finally, I heard voices. I followed the sound and spotted sunlight streaking through an opening in the ceiling. A couple came down the ladder. As they passed me in the tunnel, they asked if it was scary.

I lied and told them it was “a piece of cake.”

To reach Lava Beds National Monument travel north on U.S. 395, through Susanville to Alturas. Continue north on Highways 299 and 139 (toward Tulelake). About 45 miles north of Alturas, follow the signs to the national monument.

For more information go to http://www.nps.gov/labe/index.htm.

I’ve have more about the history of Lava Beds National Monument next week.

Rich Moreno covers the places and people that Nevadans like to see.